[ *** P52 Help: Add/Edit Guidelines *** ]

[ecNate]

Guidelines for adding and editing to Portfolio52 (the playing card database)

NOTICE - This is now outdated and has been (in the process of) being replaced by an entry in the Learning section of Portfolio52.
Instead, this thread will remain for continued best practices discussions. Any input into the guidelines and updates for the guide to match the latest version of P52 are welcome.


TLWR (Too Long Won't Read) - SEARCH WELL FIRST. Only add ACTUAL decks that are fully qualified playing card decks (no coins, add ons, general card games, etc). Add ALL related information for ALL the fields, and do so accurately. Only add decks that you actually have in your possession and can provide quality scanned actual images of the decks (no photos, screen grabs, downloads). See details be low as needed. If you want to be an editor then sorry there is no TLDR option, read the following.


Notice - These guidelines are not yet updated for new fields/options) from the new system provided on October 14, 2016


Taking off of montecarlojoe's naming convention, I thought it would be good to start drafting contribution and editing guidelines until rhu gets a chance to incorporate them into the application. This will be a good way to flush out the details ahead of time as well. Any additions or changes respond below and myself or rhu can keep this first entry updated. It is absolutely critical that we all work together and follow these guidelines, please DO NOT start modifying the established conventions, but do propose changes if you feel they are needed.

Please also refer to the 'PlayingCardDB FAQs' thread for additional details


WHAT NOT TO ADD
* Do NOT add decks in concept, planning, funding or still in production. Wait until they have been delivered
* Do NOT add card games that do not also function as a standard deck (has numbered cards, courts, suits, etc). Exceptions can be made for card games that also are a full deck, alternate or additional suits, alternate indices, using numbers instead of JKQ, or of course alternate conventions worldwide, etc. For example, do not add Uno, Hanabi or Cards Against Humanity , but a card game like Wizard would work because it can also easily be identified as a standard deck for use in other standard card games.
* Tarot decks fall into a grey area and can be added if a member feels strongly about it being included, although that is not the primary goal of the database. If added please prefix title with 'TAROT DECK - ' for clarity until a new type field can be added as a selection.
* Do NOT add coins, shirts or any other add on from a card related Kickstarter project or theme. This includes custom wood boxes UNLESS it serves as the ONLY tuckbox (as a full tuck swap) and was fully packaged and sold as a set vs an add-on.

WHAT TO ADD / HOW TO ADD A NEW DECK
* If you don't have a quality scanner, at least use the Google PhotoScan app for your phone. If you don't want to take the time to use a properly captured and rotated/cropped image, please do not add the deck, especially if it is a new modern deck. In the current version of Portfolio52 only editors can modify images which means by adding an incomplete deck the vast majority of users can not correct it and are locked from adding their own better version.
* First be certain the deck isn't already added - both search and also check under ALL of the possible categories/producers/brands listings (to account for misspellings). NOTE - Do NOT add a new brand unless there are at least 5 decks to be listed under that new grand, otherwise use the Unknown, Kickstarter Misc, Casino Misc or other appropriate catch all groupings.
* Provided you have at least Contributor level access, new decks are added from the Add Deck' URL - http://www.portfolio52.com/deck/add (which is also now a drop down menu option). Once on that form be certain to fill out ALL the fields you can, make sure to add all images, especially tuck front/back AND the new mfg, brand, production company and artist fields if known and if available in the lists. While you can modify existing decks you created, it's best to get it all right immediately, especially since only you or editors can make corrections later (other general users or other contributors can not - new in P52, this includes ability to add additional images to decks contributors did not create themselves).
* To add an uncut sheet, at the moment add it as an individual entry with 'UNCUT' at the end of the name'
* Tuck swaps should be listed as separated entries
* Seal swaps, those decks that have a limited edition primarily due to a custom and usually serial numbered sticker/seal can also be added as separate entries. However, all decks within that seal are listed together (if it was a small run of 5, do not list each individual deck as separate entries).

NAMING A NEW DECK
* Naming convention - use this naming convention for consistency (see section below for details) : {NAME} {SUBTITLE(S)} {[BRAND]} {(CLARIFICATIONS)} {UNCUT}

NAMING A NEW DECK - DETAILS
* NAME: list the actual title of the deck as provided on the tuck or designated by the producer, listing any article word (as in 'The' or 'A') after the name with a comma as shown
* SUBTITLES: If applicable, include any other subtitles to help specify and differentiate it from other similar ones in the series. Consider listing the Version (recommend using v1, v2), Color, Limited Edition (if so called out by name), Date, etc as needed While the order is not critical, only list items essential and provided by the producer. If possible list from general to specific (version usually first) and be consistent with other decks in the series and by the same producer if possible.
* BRAND: If the deck is branded (as Bicycle for example) then list it as such in brackets "[]", otherwise do not use. Note this is not often required on an uncut sheet as typically only the tuckbox is branded.
* CLARIFICATIONS: ONLY if it is critical for differentiation or in searches, place within parenthesis "()" any other common clarification or alternate names not listed on the deck or by the producer. For example, Pandamonium also goes by Panda or to designate 'misprint', 'Limited Edition' (if not part of the deck title - for example if implied only by special color or seal) or any other common difference.
* UNCUT: List if it is an uncut sheet, otherwise do not use
* Only use these name components if essential and especially note that DATE should only be used if it was produced multiple years and need to distinguish printed year.
* Examples:

Persian Empire, The
Federal 52 [Bicycle]
Federal 52
Artifice V1 (2011)
Curator UNCUT
Persian Empire, The UNCUT
Civil War Red [Bicycle]
Civil War Blue [Bicycle]
Old Masters Limited Edition [Bicycle]
Hotcakes Black (Limited Edition)

NOTE - Remember that you can rename your entry of a deck within your collection if you prefer something different than how it was originally added to the database

PROVIDING A DESCRIPTION
Tip - The text input box for the description is resizable to make it easier to work with, click/drag the bottom right corner to resize.
* While not essential, adding a description can be valuable to collectors, especially in the future as details of the deck are forgotten.
* Anything relevant about the deck, illustrator, manufacturer, stock, crowd funding details, URLs, etc can and should be included. This is a great place to document information about the deck for which there are not yet any custom fields for it.
* The structure of description content can be free form and vary, but below is a possible template to use if you desire:

Code: Select all

Funded as a Kickstarter project on <funded date> with <amount raised> pledged from <num backers> backers, this was a <single/multiple/etc deck set>. Designed by <artist> through <company>, this deck features the theme of <theme described>. <additional information - printer, stock, awards, etc>.  This PCDB Entry is for the <x deck, if multiples in the project>. 

<Kickstarter URL>

Example:

Funded as a Kickstarter project on April 10, 2014 with $116,525 pledged from 1,394 backers, this was a set of two decks (Continental & The Crown) in three variations (Standard, Limited, Display) for a total of 6 decks. Designed by Jackson Robinson through Kings Wild Project, this deck features the theme of the United States struggle for independence against Britan. This PCDB Entry is for the Continental Display Deck which was the same cards as the Limited version, but with a plain style tuck case so collectors could feel free to use this deck and keep the actual Limited deck safe.

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/17 ... by-the-rev" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

The Independence decks also won the Best Ace of Spades award from UnitedCardists 2014 Deck of the Year
http://unitedcardists.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=6448" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

DETERMINING THE RELEASE DATE
* ONLY document the year, details about an exact date or time should be listed in the description if desired
* To minimize future confusion, the primary source is the copyright year printed on the deck if it exists, even if that was a copyright in the prior and it was printed early the next year. Use the description field to address these dependencies and further details as needed. If a date is not on the box then using any other source information available on when it actually was printed is the next best option.
* For a commercial deck that is available for immediate sale the date/year it is made available for purchase obviously should be utilized
* For a crowd funded deck (eg. Kickstarter), the date/year used should be when the deck was confirmed as printed, even if some backers have not yet received their rewards.
* If the exact year is not known, common for vintage decks, substitute 'X' as needed. For example, a deck known to be printed sometime in the 1960s could be listed as '196X'.
* Replica/Facsimile decks can list BOTH the date when the copy was printed AND the date of the deck it is a copy of. This can be done in the format of '<original date> <copy date>'. For example, '1804 2004'. This should be reserved for exact or near replicas, not inspired by decks.

PRINTED
* Please note this is the QUANTITY printed and not another request for a date
* Only complete if this can be confirmed, otherwise leave empty. Sources include numbered seals on the deck, producer/manufacturer documentation, Kickstarter details, etc

IMAGE GUIDELINES
* Personally scanned good quality (semi-high DPI) images are preferred, avoid early production (Kickstarter) images if possible since early renders often change before the final printing. Exception can be made to utilize renders for uncuts due to difficulty scanning or capturing a quality squared photo.
* Stock photos from the producer are usually acceptable, but when using those found on the internet do NOT use any copyrighted images. Sparkz on UC is a member and has added his photos and they use Creative Commons (http://www.sparkzcollector.com/#!image-usage/c22j7) so those will be seen on the site with watermarks, but don't assume any image on the Internet is free to use. Again, personally scanned or photographed are best when possible and when using images that have clearance for non-commercial use read the details and do NOT remove any watermarks.
* Using Photographs instead of scanned - Use the Google PhotoScan app if this is your only option due to lack of scanner or available images, it's also often the best option for uncuts. If that is not an option, please wait and allow others to add the deck instead, unless it's a VERY rare or unusual deck and stock images are not available.
* Replacing the SAME image with a better version is always encouraged.
* When selecting what image to be the thumb for a deck, when possible choose the image of just the tuckbox face.
* When selecting what image to be the thumb for an uncut, when possible choose a straight on view of the full uncut sheet without any mat/frame (camera photo or early proof images work best as source).
* The application will resize to apx tuckbox face dimensions within grouped views, but will display proper dimensions when viewed inside an entry or directly.

NEW PORTFOLIO52 FIELDS -
* The change to v2 (Portfolio52) added new fields for artist, brand, manufacturer in addition to previous company, DO NOT FORGET TO ALWAYS POPULATE THESE WHEN YOU CAN!
- Artists: person(s) that created the actual artwork)
- Brand: the commercial brand applied to some decks, usually Bicycle, Bee, Tally Ho, etc)
- Manufacturer: the actual printer of the deck, although sometimes the company behind an unamed printer, like EPCC)
- Company (aka producer, the person(s) or company(s) that had the vision and saw the idea complete to creation)
* If you need a new drop down entry added for any of these, see this thread

EDITING AN EXISTING DECK
* Use all related guidelines as listed in ADDING section

DELETING/MERGING EXISTING DECK(S)
* If you are an editor you may mark it yourself by first renaming the deck as 'DELETE - DUPLICATE' to avoid it coming up in other searches and for proper future identification. Next, in the description update it to state that it a duplicate of another deck and LINK to that deck so the creator and others that may have added to their collection know what it's a duplicate of (remember we renamed it). Lastly, to call attention to this for people that have it in their collection, replace the tuck scans with this image
* If you don't have edit access, you can post your duplicate find in this thread with the links to the 2 decks in question to allow for any discussion as they may have differences and not actually be duplicates. This also lets people be aware of a future merge/deletion.
* On occasion, and after sufficient time as passed for people to be made aware of the pending deletions, these marked duplicates/deletes will be fully removed.

[Slavich]

ADDING A NEW DECK
* Do NOT add decks in concept planning, funding or still in production. Wait until they have been delivered
* To add an uncut sheet, at the moment add it as an individual entry with 'UNCUT' at the end of the name'
* First be certain the deck isn't already added - both search and also check under ALL of the possible categories/producers/brands listings (to account for misspellings)
* Naming convention - use this naming convention for consistency : {NAME}{,The} {VERSION or COLOR} {[BRAND]} {(DATE or any other clarification or alternate names)} UNCUT
* Only use these name components if essential and especially note that DATE should only be used if it was produced multiple years and need to distinguish printed year. Examples:

Persian Empire, The
Federal 52 [Bicycle]
Federal 52
Artifice :V1 (2011)
Curator UNCUT
Persian Empire, The UNCUT
Civil War Red [Bicycle]
Civil War Blue [Bicycle]
Hotcakes Black (Limited Edition)

Have a few questions:
1. When a deck is available in Branded and Unbranded form do we put both in square brackets or just the e.g. [Bicycle] brand and put nothing for the unbranded like Fed 52 examples above?
2. When both Version number and Colour are available what goes first, Version? Also should we always put ':' infront of Version number?
3. When a deck needs to be marked with 'Limited Edition' should it always be put into brackets () like Hotcakes example above? Also where should it go, before branding but after Version/Colour?

I think there are other examples of naming the decks which I can come up with but can't think right now, it's getting rather late here

Thanks for the guidelines, very clear and helpful

[ecNate]

Well, you tell me!

It's just a guide and an early draft at that. My personal opinion is it really doesn't matter much provided we are consistent with placing the actual name of the deck first (with 'A' or 'The' after) and placing any clarification after that. The order doesn't really make a huge deal from my perspective, but just used montecarlojoe's initial suggestion as a starting point.

I modified it to imply that if it is unbranded it doesn't need clarification since the absence of it should mean it's not branded (no brand is listed). Specifying unbranded seems redundant in a way to me, unless somebody feels strongly about also specifying [Unbranded].

I don't see how the ':' really serves a purpose here since using 'v1' or 'v2' is common practice. I'll remove that from the guide.

As for version or color first I suppose it depends on how it was done. While I said order doesn't matter I do think that any clarifications should be listed from general to specific. Although it also may depend on how it is listed on the tuck or advertised. If not then perhaps if the focus is on version and they just happen to come in colors then version would make sense to come first. Then there are cases where color also designates a limited edition, is it 'limited edition black' or 'black limited edition'? In that case they really are the same thing, just different methods of specifying it. To keep it simple, I would simply propose we change it to be:

{NAME} {SUBTITLE(S)} {[BRAND]} {(CLARIFICATIONS)} {UNCUT}
* NAME - list the actual title of the deck as provided on the tuck or designated by the producer, listing any article word (as in 'The' or 'A') after the name with a comma as shown
* SUBTITLES - If applicable, include any other subtitles to help specify and differentiate it from other similar ones in the series. Consider listing the Version (recommend using v1, v2), Color, Limited Edition (if so called out by name), Date, etc as needed While the order is not critical, only list items essential and provided by the producer. If possible list from general to specific and be consistent with other decks in the series and by the same producer if possible.
* BRAND - If the deck is branded (as Bicycle for example) then list it as such in brackets "[]", otherwise do not use
* CLARIFICATIONS - ONLY if it is critical for differentiation or in searches, place within parenthesis "()" any other common clarification or alternate names not listed on the deck or by the producer. For example, Pandamonium also goes by Panda or to designate 'misprint', 'Limited Edition' (if not part of the deck title - for example if implied only by special color or seal) or any other common difference.
* UNCUT - List if it is an uncut sheet, otherwise do not use

This also would fit the Hotcakes example as the deck was called Hotcakes Black officially, but it really meant it was Limited Edition and would fit that it is listed as '(Limited Edition)' since it's not the official name and just a common descriptor/clarification provided by the deck submitter instead title given by the deck producer.

Thoughts?

[montecarlojoe]

I would say version first;

A deck has many versions; a version has many colours, so the logical order is Name - Version - Colour/variant

Colours may repeat in different versions but it's not guaruanteed (see legends - no V2 Green, no V1 black), so it wouldnt be consistent the other way around. (IMO)

[ecNate]

Updated guidelines based on input, thanks for that! Again, any other logical changes gladly accepted and these are only guidelines, not rules. Also, note that you can rename a deck to whatever you want within your collection after you add it (be sure to use the proper edit button).

[Sparkz]

Hey all, I'm going to start funneling in some images and info to the DB, now I mean no disrespect to anyone with this comment, but do you want "so, so" thumbs replaced with better scans if available?

Just asking

[ecNate]

Hey all, I'm going to start funneling in some images and info to the DB, now I mean no disrespect to anyone with this comment, but do you want "so, so" thumbs replaced with better scans if available?

Just asking

First is first, even if crappy! Nah, just kidding. Obviously please change the designated thumb if you have a better quality one. I know for a few of them I just used what I had or said a scan that was slightly tilted is still better than nothing. Also, I open all my decks so it would be neat to see some scans of what a new deck looks like. Thanks for contributing!

[dazzleguts]

I'm adding scans from a Mac system and my mouse middle button doesn't seem to be working to choose the thumbnail - it just opens the image in a new tab. Is there some other way I can set the thumbnail?

[ecNate]

I'm adding scans from a Mac system and my mouse middle button doesn't seem to be working to choose the thumbnail - it just opens the image in a new tab. Is there some other way I can set the thumbnail?

That got me too for a long time. Turns out the left mouse button (regular click) works too, maybe even better. Not sure why it talks about middle button, difference seems to be it opens a new window to confirm, but otherwise works the same.

[montecarlojoe]

Sparkz - Ideally the "main" image should be a flat scan for the collection views - but please to replace them where you can. Scanners seem to hate foil!
You can also add as many other images to a record as you like

[dazzleguts]

I'm adding scans from a Mac system and my mouse middle button doesn't seem to be working to choose the thumbnail - it just opens the image in a new tab. Is there some other way I can set the thumbnail?

That got me too for a long time. Turns out the left mouse button (regular click) works too, maybe even better. Not sure why it talks about middle button, difference seems to be it opens a new window to confirm, but otherwise works the same.

Thanks.
I had tried the left button at the time but it turns out I was clicking on the wrong image. The system actually doesn't give me the image I need to click on until I've left and then re-entered the deck page.

[ecNate]

Yeah that's a know bug. I just refresh the page first. Then you can see it to click when it appears at the bottom.

[rhu]

I'm adding scans from a Mac system and my mouse middle button doesn't seem to be working to choose the thumbnail - it just opens the image in a new tab. Is there some other way I can set the thumbnail?

That got me too for a long time. Turns out the left mouse button (regular click) works too, maybe even better. Not sure why it talks about middle button, difference seems to be it opens a new window to confirm, but otherwise works the same.

Haha, sorry. Middle mouse button click was really just a note to myself that I hadn't made the update page redirect or do anything useful. Middle mouse click on my OS/browser opens the page in a new tab so I can just close it after.

[cherrynukacola]

What's the stance for using third-party images of the decks?

[ecNate]

Depends on your definition of 3rd party. Due to potential copyright issues I would think personally taken images would be ideal, with stock photos also acceptable. I suppose technically there's a fine line there between fair use and copyright, but since this is really promoting the deck and non-profit, not to mention not duplicating, there shouldn't be any issue there. Taking images from say Sparkz/Kardify website (what I would call 3rd party) would not be a good idea since it's possible that may end up being competition with those other sites, especially if images are pulled from another online card collection. They might have reasons to pursue action at that point. Just my opinion though, rhu owns/controls the website and would have to deal with those unhappy with images posted.

[iDoctor]

Gentlemen, one more question regarding decks naming. As I my see, many popular deck names have their own structure at the moment. For example, Arcane cards has mostly named as follows: Black Arcane, Gold Arcane etc. Doesn't looks nice in the coolection, as all decks placed in different places, far from each other. What do you think, isn't it better to re-name them in a regular way: name - color - etc?

[montecarlojoe]

Yes - I'd say if you spot 'em, change 'em!

Apart from satisfying my personal OCD, decks like Arcane would then naturally group together in the collection view (since it's alphabetical) and just look much nicer!

[montecarlojoe]

Depends on your definition of 3rd party. Due to potential copyright issues I would think personally taken images would be ideal, with stock photos also acceptable. I suppose technically there's a fine line there between fair use and copyright, but since this is really promoting the deck and non-profit, not to mention not duplicating, there shouldn't be any issue there. Taking images from say Sparkz/Kardify website (what I would call 3rd party) would not be a good idea since it's possible that may end up being competition with those other sites, especially if images are pulled from another online card collection. They might have reasons to pursue action at that point. Just my opinion though, rhu owns/controls the website and would have to deal with those unhappy with images posted.

If there were a way to refer back to the original source then it would be fine. Can;t see E complaining about people being directed to their site by clicking on their original image.
Having said that, shed loads of blogs / reviews borrow the exact same images - so claiming fair use might be reasonable.

On balance I agree though - new images are preferable (and with photographers like Kai and Sparkz on hand, probably better!)

[ecNate]

Gentlemen, one more question regarding decks naming. As I my see, many popular deck names have their own structure at the moment. For example, Arcane cards has mostly named as follows: Black Arcane, Gold Arcane etc. Doesn't looks nice in the coolection, as all decks placed in different places, far from each other. What do you think, isn't it better to re-name them in a regular way: name - color - etc?

That example, yeah definitely make the change since while they may sometimes be referred to commonly as 'Black Arcane' the name of the deck and tuck is just 'Arcane' and black option. Go ahead and change those, thanks for correcting them.

In a case like the Black Tiger decks, those are the actual names so they should remain as is. However, do remember that you have the ability to edit deck names WITHIN your collections so if anybody would like to see decks like this alternately listed you can always rename your deck instance within your collections.

[Sparkz]

Ok, so I've been adding some tuck to the DB along with some extra images, but I must be missing something...........I can't seem to figure out how to add a completely new deck?

I have the 52 Plus Joker I wanted to add since folks have been picking them up, but I can't seem to figure it out......and I'm not a computer noob, lol

Thanks

[Sparkz]

Never mind, I'm not sure if I can add a "Company" so i put it in with the last "Misc" category for the moment.

....on a side note, I'v added a bunch of stuff to "MY Collection" but my collection count isn't changing, just an FYI in case it's happening to others.

[dazzleguts]

Hi Sparkz
I've noticed my deck count can take a little while to be updated after I've added decks. Just a lag in the database I think, unless you're talking more than a day later?

[Sparkz]

Hi Sparkz
I've noticed my deck count can take a little while to be updated after I've added decks. Just a lag in the database I think, unless you're talking more than a day later?

Ya, it caught up when I checked just now, thank you

I've got some scans and pics to add to some decks I added today

[dazzleguts]

Glad to help

Great Kardify article on the DB!

[Sparkz]

Glad to help

Great Kardify article on the DB!

Thanks, hopefully it will bring some more collectors to the DB and boost the contribution base

[ecNate]

Ok, so I've been adding some tuck to the DB along with some extra images, but I must be missing something...........I can't seem to figure out how to add a completely new deck?

I have the 52 Plus Joker I wanted to add since folks have been picking them up, but I can't seem to figure it out......and I'm not a computer noob, lol

Thanks

Contact Rhu, there appears to be 4 levels of access (excluding guest and rhu's super access). Names are my own and done from memory since nothing is currently officially documented:
Member - able to add existing decks to collection & add images (can't recall if this was at this level or the next)
Editor - adds ability to edit decks in the database with name/description/date changes, select tuck front/back images
Creator - adds access to add new decks into the database
Admin Assistant - adds access to restricted admin page to modify brand lists (plus upcoming features for artist, manufacturer, etc)

Hi Sparkz
I've noticed my deck count can take a little while to be updated after I've added decks. Just a lag in the database I think, unless you're talking more than a day later?

I recall rhu saying it was updated nightly, not sure of what exact time or timezone though, but yeah as you saw there is a slight delay.

[Sparkz]

Ok, so I've been adding some tuck to the DB along with some extra images, but I must be missing something...........I can't seem to figure out how to add a completely new deck?

I have the 52 Plus Joker I wanted to add since folks have been picking them up, but I can't seem to figure it out......and I'm not a computer noob, lol

Thanks

Contact Rhu, there appears to be 4 levels of access (excluding guest and rhu's super access). Names are my own and done from memory since nothing is currently officially documented:
Member - able to add existing decks to collection & add images (can't recall if this was at this level or the next)
Editor - adds ability to edit decks in the database with name/description/date changes, select tuck front/back images
Creator - adds access to add new decks into the database
Admin Assistant - adds access to restricted admin page to modify brand lists (plus upcoming features for artist, manufacturer, etc)

Hi Sparkz
I've noticed my deck count can take a little while to be updated after I've added decks. Just a lag in the database I think, unless you're talking more than a day later?

I recall rhu saying it was updated nightly, not sure of what exact time or timezone though, but yeah as you saw there is a slight delay.

No worries Nate, thanks though. It seems I can do everything but add a "Container" meaing a new company or designer. I can add, edit withing exisitng groups though. I have a few more to go and I'll have all my collection in there, I added a handful of decks, thumbnails and pics over the weekend, the site is looking really good

[mjolnir]

Hi all.

I have added what decks I could to the database but I am not allowed to create new decks. I am also not allowed to PM anyone on this board. So, what is my next step?

Thanks

[jerichoholic]

That doesn't even make sense?

[ecNate]

new users on this board have to have a certain numbers of posts first before can pm, I think 5 to reduce spam. likewise not every new user will get full access to PCDB right away.

the simple answer any how is you need to make a request from the PCDB site

Read this first
http://unitedcardists.com/viewtopic.php?f=58&t=5666" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;