There is the question of how the embossed, aka air-cushion, finish will affect the images. Everyone, including the kind folks at USPCC, say that using a smooth finish is better when you have photographs on the cards, but I want these cards to handle properly and thus I don't want to take the risk of using a smooth finish. Also, personally, any type of embossed finish makes the cards feel higher-quality to me than smooth.neongrey wrote:Oh, wow, these always looked good but they're stunning now. Hope the proof looks as good as the pictures!
I kind of like the back, but I may not be the best judge; I tend to have pretty different tastes from a lot of the other collectors here.MagikFingerz wrote:Hmmm... It's not really that big of an issue for me, and I might just grow to like it as I see it more (it has happened before). Hard to say without having the actual deck though.
It might also help to hear someone else's perspective on the backs, if anyone has any similar or different views.
Yeah, I don't know that I'd worry too much though I'm glad you're checking it out first before going to KS. I don't have anything with photographs and an embossed finish on hand, but looking at the decks I've got that are depicting an actual picture, it comes out looking good. I just hope it comes out as vivid as these deserve to be.zsalman wrote: There is the question of how the embossed, aka air-cushion, finish will affect the images. Everyone, including the kind folks at USPCC, say that using a smooth finish is better when you have photographs on the cards, but I want these cards to handle properly and thus I don't want to take the risk of using a smooth finish. Also, personally, any type of embossed finish makes the cards feel higher-quality to me than smooth.
We'll see how it looks when the prototypes come back. Granted, the prototypes are not printed on the offset press, so there will already be a quality difference between that and the final production decks, but if the prototypes look good with the air-cushion finish, then the production decks will only look better.
Man I like these, but yeah I get it about the registration issues. Then again, might be so small as to be unnoticeable. Definitely do need 2 colors for pips tho.zsalman wrote:Something like this?
However, when I presented this to the prepress folks at USPCC, they said that since the red is actually made of up two colors, magenta and yellow, if there's a registration problem between one of the plates, either magenta or yellow, you'll see that color creep into the white area of the pip. It's not that they won't print it, it's just that they are warning me that there could be issues.
I've been trying out different colors of the red pip and no matter what color I choose, there's always at least one image that the red color clashes with, and having the red pip there really changes the feel of the card. I'm thinking I need to stick with white all around.
-Z
Agreed, doesn't need to be red, can be any two colours which work.DukeBoy wrote:People say red because it is what they are comfortable with. you could do yellow and white, blue and white....
Yeah, I thought about different colors other than red and white, but I need to minimize the amount of exotic coloring on the card elements. I'm trying to keep things as neutral as possible so there aren't discordant colors. People say that only artists worry about these things, but even if you're not an artist, you can tell when the colors in an image are off. You may not be able to put your finger on it, but you know something about the image isn't right or doesn't feel good. That's the big headache with cards like these that have photographs on them.Strag wrote:Agreed, doesn't need to be red, can be any two colours which work.DukeBoy wrote:People say red because it is what they are comfortable with. you could do yellow and white, blue and white....
All the indices will be white. I played with coloring them, but doing the vertical split coloring of option 1 didn't work, and coloring the whole index added to the amount of color that would clash with the image.MagikFingerz wrote:I concur, option 1 looks much better.
What are your thoughts on the indices (A, K, Q, J and 2-10); will they be the same or remain white?
): The vertical lines along the edges crossing behind the pips bothers me a bit. Could you make them fade earlier and maybe even shorten them a bit and see if it looks better? Maybe have them end the same distance from the edge as the horizontal lines?The gradients on the vertical lines have been troubling me, because I'm not sure exactly how they will end up in the final print. I've been doing test prints on my inkjet printer and they have been looking different depending on how I've set the black point settings, and of course they look very different on the screen than in print. I'm thinking that no matter what I do, short of signficantly changing the size of the borders, there will be some unpredictability in exactly where the gradient fades out. It depends on how USPCC does their image processing to make the plates.MagikFingerz wrote:Love it!
One more small thing (and I'm being very picky now
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